Brake Repair

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Mike Rowe, the internationally recognized television host, writer and proponent of professionals in the skilled trades, has signed on to support Wagner brand’s latest automotive braking innovation, Wagner brake pads, used by Brake Tech as part of our product line.

“I’ve always been grateful for the technicians who look after my vehicle. And humbled. Truth is, you need to be part rocket-scientist these days to figure out what really goes on under the hood, and I’m glad to shine on the people who take their jobs seriously. I’m also happy to brag about Wagner brakes. They’ve done something no one else in the industry has managed to do, and that’s worth talking about,” said Rowe.

Brake Tech uses OEX brake pads, upon request, which help the owners of pickups, sport utility vehicles and crossovers stop up to 50 feet sooner!
  1. Getting Started
We Jack the car up and remove the wheel and tire.
    Check to see how much friction is on the rotor by turning it by hand. A small amount of drag is normal.
    Remove the caliper so we can inspect the condition of the rotor. To do this, loosen the bleeder screw, located on the back of the caliper. Then, disconnect the flex hose, (which is connected from the caliper to the car) by loosening the fitting that attaches it to the car. At this point, place a metal pan beneath the caliper to catch any remaining brake fluid coming out. Then, remove the caliper retaining bolts and rock the unit back and pull it away from the rotor.
      Remove the hub retaining nut in the middle of the rotor. Some rotors will slide off without any unbolting. The rotor should come right off at this point so we can inspect it. If a rotor is badly worn, we may be able to notice pronounced grooves on its surface. However, most of the time, we will need to use the micrometer to measure whether it is thick enough for we to continue using it.
      The rotor most likely has the minimum thickness measurement stamped on its edge. If the rotor is dirty or rusty, use the wire brush to clean it and expose the measurement. Then, take the micrometer and determine whether the minimum amount of thickness remains. If so, wear on the face of the rotor can be machined by a service technician. If not, it must be replaced. If a rotor is suffering from lateral run out, (i.e., is warped) the rotor must be replaced with a new one. Lateral run-out tends to cause a shimmy and pulsation through the steering wheel when we apply the brakes.
        If the car has a sealed roller bearing and it has become worn (normally around 100,000 miles or so), the entire wheel hub assembly must be replaced. If it has a tapered roller bearing (as most cars do) we can remove the roller bearing from the hub assembly and inspect it. Look for evidence of pitting or scoring. If it has these conditions, it should be replaced.
        Before replacing the bearing, it must be greased. Before handling the grease, take some hand cleaner and rub it onto the hands, especially concentrating on the fingernails, then wipe off the excess. Next, take a large portion of grease into the palm of one hand and the bearing in the other. Turn the bearing to its wider end and then press it into the grease, until the grease is completely through the holes in the bearing. Take some time to make sure that the grease is worked through the entire unit. Then, work some grease into the bearing race on the hub that holds the bearing and insert the bearing.
        Next, we must apply the grease seal. Many people make the mistake of pounding the seal into place with a hammer. This usually destroys the seal, forcing we to buy another one. However, we can save time and money by using a seal driver, which we can purchase at an auto supply store. This tool fits over top of the seal, then we hammer the top of the tool, which pushes the seal into place. The money we save on seals should cover the cost of the tool.
          If the brakes are squealing, the pads might need to be replaced. Sometimes, the reason they squeal is because the brake pad wear indicator tab is being exposed by the pad wear. Taking the old pads off the caliper is easy, they usually click in and out of place. When putting new pads on, it is advisable to apply an anti-squeal gel or shims. These are applied to the side of the pad that comes in contact with the caliper. If we are applying the gel, allow about 30 minutes for the material to dry on the pads before replacing them. Then, simply click the pads into place.
            Now, we have checked all the components of the brakes and have replaced or fixed any parts as needed, it is time to put them back on the car. First, take the rotors and wash them with soap and water to remove any grease that may be left from the hands. Then, put them on the spindle and attach them into place using the hub retaining nut.
            Very Important: Make sure we torque the bolts to the specifications outlined in the car's manual. Over- or under-tightening can cause major damage to the car and/or could jeopardize the vehicle safety.
            Then, slide the caliper back into place and bolt it on to factory specs. Take the flex hose and re-attach it to the brake line.
              We can remove old brake fluid from the master cylinder by using a turkey baster and sucking the old fluid out and putting it into a pan. Then, add new fluid. Go to the caliper and attach a rubber hose to the back of the bleeder screw and put the hose into a pan for it to drain. Have a partner sit in the car and pump the brakes while we open the nut to drain out the old fluid and bubbles in the line. After several times through, tighten the bleeder screw again.

                Located at 18900 E 9 Mile Road Eastpointe, Mi 48021